The History of Wristwatches: From Sundials to the Trench Watch
Introduction: Wearing Time
The wristwatch isn’t just a functional accessory—it’s a symbol of innovation, style, and personal identity. But where did it come from? The journey of the wristwatch is far older—and more surprising—than most imagine.
Before it became a staple of elegance and engineering, timekeeping was a rare privilege. Let’s explore how humanity’s need to measure time evolved from towering sundials to precise mechanical marvels worn on the wrist.
From Shadows to Springs: The Pre-Wristwatch Era
Long before we had anything portable, we had sundials, water clocks, and tower bells. These early systems told communities the hour—but not individuals.
By the 16th century, with the invention of the mainspring, timekeeping finally became portable. The first mechanical watches were born in Europe—ornate, often inaccurate, and worn around the neck or carried in pockets.
- These early watches were expensive and symbolic—a show of wealth, not utility.
- They were typically pocket watches, used by the aristocracy and later by merchants and gentlemen.
Still, these weren’t wristwatches—not yet.
Ladies First: Wristwatches as Jewelry
The idea of a watch worn on the wrist began as a fashion statement for women. The earliest known wristwatch was created in 1810 by Breguet for the Queen of Naples. But this was jewelry first, timepiece second.
Throughout the 19th century, bracelet watches gained popularity among aristocratic women in Europe. Often jewel-encrusted and delicate, they were still dismissed by men as impractical or effeminate.
Ironically, it would take the brutality of modern warfare to make wristwatches masculine.
Wartime Innovation: The Birth of the Trench Watch
The First World War changed everything.
In the chaos of the trenches, pulling out a pocket watch under fire was not just impractical—it was dangerous. Soldiers began modifying pocket watches with leather straps to wear them on their wrists.
These makeshift timepieces evolved into what became known as trench watches:
- Equipped with luminous hands for nighttime visibility
- Often had protective grilles or shrapnel guards
- Built with larger, legible numerals and robust cases
These watches weren’t fashion—they were function. And they helped soldiers synchronize attacks, coordinate logistics, and navigate the battlefield.
By the end of WWI, returning veterans continued wearing them, and civilian society took note.
Post-War Adoption: A New Standard for Men
The stigma of wristwatches being “just for women” quickly disappeared. After 1918, wristwatches gained respectability and mass appeal among men, especially those who had served in the military.
Watchmakers capitalized on the shift:
- Rolex, Longines, and Omega began producing rugged wristwatches for men.
- The wristwatch transitioned from military tool to everyday essential.
- Innovations in movement, waterproofing, and design followed.
By the 1920s and 30s, the wristwatch had eclipsed the pocket watch in popularity—and the golden age of horology had begun.
Conclusion: From Necessity to Legacy
The wristwatch’s rise from battlefield improvisation to daily accessory is one of the great style evolutions of the 20th century. What started as a crude wartime fix became a universal object of personal expression—and, eventually, luxury and legacy.
In the next article, we’ll explore the golden age of wristwatches: the 20th-century boom of aviation, diving, racing, and the iconic models that defined them.
Coming Next:
🕰️ Part 2: The Rise of Iconic Watches – Rolex, Cartier, Omega and the Golden Era